Staff Review: Scarpa Force Lady

I went straight in at the deep end with my first pair of climbing shoes – Anasazi Lace-ups, the pink ones.  They did fit, but there was also this thing of wanting to make sure that I had a decent pair of rock shoes on.  I had seen other people climbing in them and seem to recall that my climbing instructor might have had them at the time, which always helps.

On retiring these (many years later - I like to get my money's worth!), I decided that I didn’t just want to go for the same again – we had some women’s specific shoes in and I was keen to give these a try.

After an exhaustive session with all our climbing shoes (unisex and women’s), I settled on a pair that I didn’t think I would – Scarpa Force Lady.  I had thought that I would end up with some more Five Ten’s or some Evolv shoes – I have always thought that the rubber feels really nice and sticky.  In fact, I did later get some Anasazi LVs, but save these for bouldering as they are great for edging, but no good for smearing in the size that fits me.

The Scarpa Force Lady fitted my feet really well, and I have found the same thing on many other women that I have fitted rock shoes for since.  There is no extra room in the shoe anywhere and my toes are just nicely pressured at the front, giving me a good amount of strength on the toe edge.  The main advantage in fit of the women's specific rock shoes over the unisex versions is that the heel cup is much closer fitting.  The result on rock was that for the first time, I found myself attempting to heel-hook with conviction – actually believing that I might pull it off.  With excess air and rubber in the back of my Anasazi’s I would never have had a go at that.

Although the rubber doesn’t feel as sticky to the touch as the Five Tens or Evolvs, I can honestly say that I have never found it to be a problem.

Over time, I also have found that the fit has remained the same.  The fabric hasn’t given way for any extra volume, just moulded to the shape of my feet, and the rubber has retained its shape.

The last point, which was also a major plus for me but more by luck than design, is that the shoes don’t stink!!  Don’t know what goes into Five Ten’s but it didn’t seem to matter what I did, they were always smelly.  My Scarpa's are as sweet smelling now as they were when I first got them (almost!).

Overall, these shoes were a really pleasant surprise. They have been great on all types of rock (indoors and out) and in hot and cold weather (they didn’t like the snow on limestone that I subjected them to last year though!). The quality of the fit means that I have been happy to attempt more adventurous moves, but still feel happy on multi-pitch  Trad routes, allowing a little bit of a belay breather by easing off the Velcro.  Any lack of stick has been down to poor technique rather than poor rubber.

Overall – awesome and already recommended to many…

Lucy - Shop Owner