Thursday 20 January 2011

Swimming up Ben Nevis

An early morning on a Sunday, there could only be a few reasons for that, mostly climbing, more precisely winter climbing. The night before had been a mini celebration for Colin's 30th birthday, along with the celebration came a promise for Colin to lead his first winter route climb the and he decided on Castle Gully on The Ben the next day (his actual birthday). Sam and myself had both agreed to tag along for the ride and to make sure Colin didn't get himself into too much trouble.

We reached the bottom of the route at around 10, stomping up the easy 40/50 degree slope digging some avalanche pits and testing the layers as there had been a fair amount of snow recently, gearing/wrapping up at the bottom and settling in for the belay stints. The gully is split into two main parts by a large chock stone just over half way, the climbing up to there was very strait forward, just a little deep in snow. As we reached the chock stone it became apparent the pitch wasn't properly formed with no more than an inch at most of ice on the side rock which we had to climb. Naturally though it was Colins lead and both me and Sam agreed he should at least try it, and with a deep breath and a few thin moves Colin soon showed that all his up training had come into use as he scrabbled up the last 3 meters and over the lip only to dig a bucket seat a JCB operator would be proud of.

The gully above the chock stone soon got deeper, and climbing up was very much like running on a tread mill which meant a unique technique was adapted. Gaining inspiration from the performance earlier we began to dry tool our way up the side of the gully to make better time to reach the top to find a very small cornice as night began to take hold. Walking down with torches on seemed to be the norm from the past few days.

A very happy birthday Colin and a very entertaining day, business as usual back in the peak now so more fun to follow...

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